I got to thinking on the Krylon, fusion, etc. The truth is that I think we are overthinking this a lot.
First, Brands make little difference, it is what we are intending to do that matters and then finding a product to make it work.
Second,
I am probably at fault for starting the Fusion thing
. Fusion is one of the first paints that was designed to stick/bond to plastics. As time goes on, a lot of paints will bond to plastic, but it was not all that long ago that most paints would peel off of plastic, and plastic based foams. All I wanted was a paint that would stick to plastic that I could then paint over with other paints.
Third, the term "primer" should be used loosely. I intend that the term primer mean a base that will allow the top coat to adhere/stick to the lure. It helps if the base is a color that is easy to cover with the top coat. IT IS NOT A REQUIREMENT that the paint be called a primer, or that it be a specific color, only that it adheres to the plastic and does not peel off. I don't care if it is gloss, flat, white (but nice), water based or solvent based, just that it adheres to the plastic and I can paint over it.
Forth, any top coat of paint, or call it the paint job, will work. It does not need to be waterproof, sun proof, etc. We are going to be using a Clear coat over it that will protect it. Using a "primer" base coat, then painting it, then clear coating will make the lure far more durable then almost all factory lures.
Fifth, the argument about what clear coat is best will never end. AlumiUV is one of the best options around, but.....Amazing Clear Cast Bar Top Coating is awesome if you have a lure turner that keeps the lure moving until it cures, usually in less then 24 hours. We use to use Devcon 2Ton clear epoxy the same way. Using any one of the three above clear coats will protect any of the materials below it.
Now, as for what to spray over the decals. Remember that we are using a water soluble ink from printers on decal paper, then using water to slide the decals off the backer paper onto the lure. We need to protect the "ink" until the decal is moved, dried, then the entire thing is clear coated. I like the decal kits because they have the protective spray with them. But, any flexible clear water proof spray will work just fine. Just use thin coats, 1 to 3 as necessary, and let it dry between coats. This protects the ink. I sure would not buy a special acrylic just for UV, art, or other special ratings. UV damage takes years of exposure to happen and your lure will not get that much exposure. We are not painting art, it will not be exposed in a scrap book or on the wall. Any simple clear acrylic will work. Acrylic is better in my opinion because it does not have yellow tints to it like varnish, etc.
I think the rest has been covered pretty well already. I just wanted to interject that we are probably overthinking the whole thing. Think about why we are using a specific product, not so much about a product name or how the company intended to advertise the product. I.E., I don't think Alumilite had lure coating as a goal when they created the bar Top Coating, or Devcon when they created their slow cure clear epoxy, but both make excellent topcoats when you have lure turners.
Now, good luck and happy lure making.