Copic Marker Air Brush

Questions about Making Your Own Lures

Copic Marker Air Brush

Postby muskyslut » Fri Jan 08, 2016 10:10 am

Has anyone figured out how to keep the Copic marker/paint form bleeding once you cover it with Etex ?
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Re: Copic Marker Air Brush

Postby dahlberg » Fri Jan 08, 2016 2:12 pm

hey MS
I've had some similar issues when I didn't allow enough time to dry after applying a few layers. Been using a hair dryer and heating/cooling it until I cant smell the ink any more before coating. I've also found the thinner, meaning more watery, epoxy clear coat products are more likely to make them run due to the % of solvent to solids. Copic's propellant is alcohol which is vulnerable to epoxy solvents. A way to get around that is to let the epoxy set out and get thicker before you apply it. I often put it in the refrigerator for several hours. It comes out like molasses, but if applied using a minimum of strokes with a wide flat soft brush it flattens out, levels on a nicely on a turner and yields good results.
BTW, what material(s) are you painting (inking)?
best
L
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Re: Copic Marker Air Brush

Postby muskyslut » Fri Jan 08, 2016 2:16 pm

Thanks Larry, I am painting on good ole wooden baits/primer . Then coating with Etex . Getting better every batch !
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Re: Copic Marker Air Brush

Postby bennie » Sat Jan 09, 2016 9:18 am

Copic Marker Air Brush is a waste of money.
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Re: Copic Marker Air Brush

Postby dahlberg » Sun Jan 10, 2016 10:02 am

hey B
sorry to hear the Copic system isn't working for you. It seems most people I've spoken to either love the system or hate it. for me it took some time to get used to beginning with light colors and ending with dark because it takes quite a few color options off the table, but once I got used to it I rarely use my "regular" airbrush anymore.
I'd originally began using the system for soft plastics prior to dipping them in clear, but I got spoiled with not having clean the darn cup and nozzle every time I switched colors, not to mention having to mess with dried up paint and getting it re-liquified to the right consistency for the airbrush!
Of course if you are doing super detail work, the Copic System is not even close to what you can do with a good airbrush, but for me and the kind of finish I need on most lures Ive been more than happy with Copic.
If I need to get a light color over a dark one I will often first apply a thin epoxy clear coat over the copic, then follow it with opaque paint like silver, gold, etc applied with a normal airbrush or even a rattle can!
In the long, long run if you are a casual builder who might let thing go dormant for several months, it's nice to know the Copic markers are always ready to go and never dry up when sitting dormant like paint does. Needless to say, it's also a decided benefit if you don't have a paint booth with ventilation.
I would say the most common problem, and mistake people make is to lay the Copic ink on too thick, and not let it get totally dry before trying to clear coat it.
best,
L
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Re: Copic Marker Air Brush

Postby RhettWheeler » Mon Jan 11, 2016 9:19 am

I don't think it's a waste at all. Just let the stuff dry really well, and as larry stated, don't use it with things that will react with it such as solvents. While i probably would opt for paint for production purposes, i really like to use it for my own personal stuff and get really good results.
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Re: Copic Marker Air Brush

Postby bennie » Tue Jan 12, 2016 9:59 am

It did not work`s for me. I was so frustrated and I decide to buy a cheap airbrush.Now I clear coat the lures with no problem.Thank`s.
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Re: Copic Marker Air Brush

Postby JBear » Sun Mar 20, 2016 10:34 am

After going through a number of spray clear coat brands that always caused the Copic ink to bleed, I have gone to Liquitex Professional varnish. It is water based and can be brushed on or sprayed on using an airbrush. You need to heat set the Copic ink and let the final result dry over night. Then use the Liquitex, a couple of light coats dry over night. Then you can use a couple of light coats of Minwax Acrylic for a final clear coat. The Liquitex seems to do a good job protecting the Copic ink from being eaten by the solvents in the standard spray clear coats.
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