Small lure repair

Questions about Making Your Own Lures

Small lure repair

Postby RhettWheeler » Tue Jul 15, 2014 7:37 am

http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/jj23 ... 44b031.jpg

This is an older photo, but the tail was bitten off last night. It's now just a tiny nub. I was crushing the bass on this last night and want to fix it. Seems like the tail was made of a very thin, leathery material. How would you guys suggest fixing it? Should I just drill the older one out and glue in a new one? Thoughts?
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Re: Small lure repair

Postby aka anglinarcher » Tue Jul 15, 2014 12:57 pm

I have a couple of older Heddon mouse swimming baits and that is the same type of tail. I also use some of the same material on some mouse flies I tie. I got some leather from a craft store that was already that same texture and color. It comes in spools and is used for lacing crafts. Hobby Lobby has a ton of it.

Yes, I would drill out the old and simple glue the new tail back in using some 5 minute epoxy. It gets hard when it dries but it softens back up as soon as it gets wet.

Great looking bait. :idea:
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Re: Small lure repair

Postby bassfighter1 » Tue Jul 15, 2014 2:55 pm

I Love Hobby Lobby,If I Need Alumilite ASAP I Get It There And Order The Goop They Don't Sell At The Store.
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Re: Small lure repair

Postby aka anglinarcher » Tue Jul 15, 2014 5:16 pm

Especially with the 40% off coupon.
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Re: Small lure repair

Postby bassfighter1 » Tue Jul 15, 2014 5:26 pm

Yeah That Helps A lot.
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Re: Small lure repair

Postby RhettWheeler » Wed Jul 16, 2014 7:45 am

Ended up drilling it out and replacing with waxed cordage in hopes that it will hold up in the water. If i don't like it, i'll just repeat the process with a different material...

What is the material you use, bassfighter? Is it leather?
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Re: Small lure repair

Postby aka anglinarcher » Wed Jul 16, 2014 9:43 pm

Not bassfighter1, but below is an example:

http://www.crazycrow.com/stringing-supp ... and-thongs
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Re: Small lure repair

Postby RhettWheeler » Thu Jul 17, 2014 8:43 am

Thanks archer

If I want to replicate this bait, do you think I should do a 2 part mold? Seems simple enough that I may be able to get away with a 1 part mold using some HS2 or 3. Thoughts?

Has anyone poured a diving lip first with clear and then filled the rest of the mold with the white resin? If so how did it work out for you? My other option would be to just purchase some circuit board and mold it in like that.
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Re: Small lure repair

Postby aka anglinarcher » Thu Jul 17, 2014 1:04 pm

Rett, remember that Larry and Mike are the true experts, but I can give my experience and opinion.

First, the clear lip. Yes, you can pour it first with a clear and then pour the rest, but I do not advise it. In a pinch, like repairing a lure that breaks lips easy, you can make a mold that fits the lure and pour a little clear and push the lure into the mold to make a new lip. It is NOT as strong as a Lexan or circuit board lip, and it is tough to get the bubbles out of it unless you put it under pressure or vacuum the material first (strong commercial vacuum container). A less strong alternate that I use is Alumilite Amazing Clear Cast. It cures slow and the bubbles get out, but it takes several days to achieve full strength and, again, it is not as strong as lexan or circuit board.

Next, have I poured a bait with the lip in place before, and that is my preferred method. You not only get the lip deeper into the bait, giving it more strength against break off, as well as a stronger lip in general, but it is more consistent then placing the lip after the bait it poured.

I look at the bait and it does not seem to have a lot of detail, not any serious undercuts, generally a simple bait, in principle. I know a two part mold would work well, but I like your suggestion that a one part mold would work. Mike shows a video on Make Lure that he did where he molded it all at one time and then used a fillet knife to open the mold to remove the blank. If I recall correctly, Larry did a couple like that as well.

It looks like it was made of wood, so my question is how much, if any, weight was added to the original. If the bait sets low in the water, it might be a great bait to pour using straight Alumilite White in the bottom, then Alumilite White with an equal amount of Microballons for the top. This would right the lure easily, especially with the hook on the bottom. With what looks like a wake bait type lip, it could be a perfect option. Alternately, one could add weight to the bottom and use Alumilite Foam for the top.

Because it is hard to explain how I would test the lure for center of balance and calculate the amount of weight and buoyancy needed, it may require a little trial and error. With that in mind, I would use HS2 with thicker walls. Alumilite Foam tends to compress and push HS3 a little too much for me and I would want to keep that option open, so HS2 is my suggestion. If I wanted to use a two part mold, I would actually use Quick Set for this one.

I know that I am getting into too much detail, but ....... this is kind of a fun project to look at. Pour from tail, vent at nose???????

Hmmm, how can I get a couple when you are done? :?:
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Re: Small lure repair

Postby RhettWheeler » Mon Jul 21, 2014 7:18 am

Thanks for passing on the experience with bonding clear with white. I'll stick with circuit board indeed.

I think i'm going to do a 2 part mold with quick set. I've had good success with quickset in the past with various designs. as far as weighting it goes, seems the weight is right at the hook hanger. the hook hanger is a little more inset I'll post a photo when I get a chance. You're right. Not a super detailed bait and no real drastic undercuts or anything of the sort.

Right on the money, it's a balsa wood lure. Really exaggerated waking action, been pounding the largemouth on them on the soutside of chicago.

Archer, I'll let you know when I finish some see if I can get a few of them to ya. I'm thinking of having the pour hole at the tail.
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Re: Small lure repair

Postby dahlberg » Mon Jul 21, 2014 10:02 am

Larry here,
I'd try making the lip and super thin layer of belly and chin ahead of lip out of regular alumilite white. Make it about 1/16" thick. Alumifoam the rest and use the tail and the spru. Need to use either plat 50 or quick-set for the mold. Since the lip isn't digging into rocks and bouncing off the bottom at high speeds I think you will be surprised at how strong it is.
Just a few thoughts.
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