Alumisol Questions

[Acuna]

I am about to order some mold making supplies and casting materials. My plan is to make a large (over 10 inch) fluke style bait that I will pour in a one piece.

Questions:

1. What is the sink rate for Alumisol?

2. What is the best way to color Alumisol? Dye or Alumidust? I am wanting to get a realistic pearl/shad color body.

3. What is the best color of Alumidust to make a dark/grey black back? Is it pewter or some other color? Also, what color green will give me that dark metallic green color you see on some baits (e.g., Hudd's shad baits)? I plan on applying the dust post-molding and then heat gunning it on.

4. Do you think I need to get any hardener or is the Alumisol tough enough to withstand Texas rigging and not get torn up after a few fish?

[Mike - Alumilite]

Good questions.

1. This depends on the amount and size of the bait but for my 16" Offspring ... with a big hook in it ... the sink rate was approx 5-6" per second. A small bass style fluke on a small texas rig hook, it is much slower ... 2-3" per second. The sink rate of Alumisol is going to be very similar to store purchased lures that do not contain salt. I'd estimate it similar to other plastisol base lures.

2. Color is in the eye of the beholder. I personally use a lot of AlumiDust for coloring my soft plastic but others prefer dye. Mixing and matching to dial in the specific look and color is pretty endless. I personally use the Pearlscent Powder for making Pearly shad baits.

3. You ask 10 different artist to paint a picture of a sunset and you will get 10 different platforms to paint on, 10 different types of paint, and 10 different shades of sunset. I'd personally recommend start with your base dye colors, black and green then accent them with the AlumiDust colors you want over top. This will give you depth of color through the plastic yet the pearlescent top coat colors and life like effect I think you are looking for.

4. Not in my opinion. Alumisol is a fairly stiff hardness which is very resilient ... its a 40 on the 00 shore hardness scale which in a fishermans language is like a tube bait. Adding the Softener, you can work it all the way down to a Whiggley hardness or like a hand pour drop shot or shakey worm hardness. By adding the Hardener, you can work it all the way up to a very stiff soft plastic similar to a hard head in a Mann's bait.

Mike

[Acuna]

Thanks, Mike. Order has been placed.

Do you put the pearlescent powder in the mold a la alumidust or do you mix it in the Alumisol when heating?

[dahlberg]

In regards to question number one, Alumisol all by itself will float!
In regards to toughness, I'd suggest doing a bit of experimenting worms that are softer than what you can typically buy over the counter. IMO they get bit better. One of the main reasons to pour your own plastics is to get stuff that's softer than commercial stuff, and since you can recycle, remelt and re-pour after they get torn up it's not a loosing proposition!
L