multi. jointed swim bait

[Rim B.]

sorry im a noob here....
but have anybody try making a multi jointed swim bait like spro?

[dahlberg]

I've been making giant sized S-Wavers, and others have made them as well. Check out the submission from AKAanglingarcher in the makelure contest.
best,
L

[GMan]

WOW! That Wondering Tail Dragger is awesome! Good work!

[Mike - Alumilite]

Check out this how to from MakeLure.com website (how tos) ... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w9KzUeGtEd4

Mike

[aka anglinarcher]

GMan wrote:
> WOW! That Wondering Tail Dragger is awesome! Good work!

Thanks GMan. I wish the lure video was better, but the lure has sure caught me a lot of fish this last year. Quite frankly, it would be easier to buy it then make it, so if someone put it into production, it would make my life easier. LOL Still, it is so effective, I am more then willing to make it for myself if that is what it takes to catch fish.

It is not that hard to design the joints. I used small cotter pins from the hardware store on one end and used a through pin on the other end. The side with the through pin had little pockets molded into them to receive the cotter pin heads. I used a V joint design instead of a round joint because I discovered that I lost the Sine Wave action if I had too much flexibility. If you want a normal and very realistic swiming bait, a round joint or even a flat joint is perfect, and easy. The flat joint exposes the joint to view but is easier to keep clean when painting than the V or round joints.

Give it a try, you would be shocked at how well you can do at making your own lures.

[aka anglinarcher]

Mike - Alumilite wrote:
> Check out this how to from MakeLure.com website (how tos) ...
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w9KzUeGtEd4
>
> Mike

Mike, perfect example of a simple flat joint. Two screw eyes, one top, one bottom, or cotter pins that are molded in in my case, stop lateral roll of the lure. But, as you proved in this video, that is not always desirable.

Thanks Mike.

[GMan]

Any chance of getting a closeup photo of the joint work, Archer? I'd love to make something like this lure only in a Muskie size.

[aka anglinarcher]

Sure, I will try to put something together.

[aka anglinarcher]

GMan,

Check out the following link to see if these photos help. Go to the Wandering Tail Dragger Album.

http://s1151.photobucket.com/albums/o62 ... n=organize

I am trying to put together a video, but so far the glasses are smarter than I am.

[aka anglinarcher]

OK, not the best, but better then I expected that I could do. I hope the two videos help.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7_L34Hif ... tube_gdata
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t529b1xu ... tube_gdata

[GMan]

Outstanding videos! You have inspired me to try some things with these; many thanks!

Question: Why the micor balloon mixture shell construction, with so much added bb weight, and then foam, vs. maybe a heavier Alumilite bottom and a lighter Alumilite (with micro balloons) top. Seems counter productive.... Were you unable to get the right buayancy and action without using foam?

Thanks again.

[aka anglinarcher]

The short answer is trial and error, but the true answer is that I had a specific action I was after so I just kept moving the center of balance/gravity lower. To get it lower, .... well view the below video (short) then I will continue.

http://s1151.photobucket.com/albums/o62 ... 050931.mp4

Larry Dahlberg, in his DVD, mentioned that when he makes shells he addes microballons to get it to stick to the sides better. I tried to go straight, but the shell was hard to get consistent. When I added microballons, the shell formed much better, with a lot less overall material. With the thin but though shell, I could then add weight. At first I would let the Alumilite White/ballons mixture set up. This was nice in that I could use alumidust and not have to paint (# 9 lead shot did not show), but again, the center of balance was raised by the thickness of the shell. Now I add the shot before the Alumilite White sets up so that it drops the center of balance a little more.

Please don't get me wrong, I am going to use the lure that I showed in the video where I got the COB higher, but it will have a different action. The original S-Waver is a wake to shallow running lure. Some time ago, while taking a friend of a friend out fishing, I was dealing with the guy getting snagged or tangled all the time. The S-Waver would slowley sink to the bottom. When I got the other guy fixed up and started to retrieve, I would get hammered. It tought me that I needed the same type of lure that would run deeper.

With a higher COB the lure has more lateral rolling, spilling water quicker, changing the "angle of attack". This is what keeps the original in the top couple of feet of the water column. By changing the COB and by not adding the lead shot to the back section, I was able to get the action I want.

I did try to just use straight Alumilite White for the shell and then use the microballons for the rest, and the COB was just not low enough. I also tried just using the Alumilite White with microballons, placing the shot as I do now, and again, it was just not as low as I wanted. Still, both options gave great lures, they just ran more shallow then I wanted.

I hope this helps some.

[GMan]

Many thanks. Makes alot of sense. Both to counter the rear hook and get the lure (and its attitude) tweaked right. I am working on a couple Muskie size baits, and I will no doubt need to go through similar experiments with weighting to get them to run as I want, both action and depth. Also key tip you make: Alumilite with micorballoons works better for making a shell than straight Allumilite. Thanks again.