Sometimes it is the little things that make all the difference. I was thinking about what I do.
First, I NEVER spray the mold with mold release. I did try a brand of mold release not marketed by Makelure.com, and I could never get the material out of the surface of the lure. Remember, Alumilite White and Clear bond to everything except silicone, so if the mold release is not silicone, you are in for problems. I see no reason to use a mold release if you are using Alumilite White or Clear in any of the Silicone molding material.
Second, IF I do clean off the lure before painting, I clean it off with MEK or acetone; you can get both at Ace or True Value Hardware. For safety reasons, it is probably best not to use MEK, and I almost never use the acetone (fingernail polish remover - concentrated). It is just not that important if you don't use mold release. If you do use a silicone based mold release, then the acetone is not a bad idea. I only sand if I did a bad job of matching the mold and need to dress it up.
Third, heat setting is really not needed if you are not painting cloth. OK, I will get in trouble if my wife reads this; I spent the money for the heat gun.
LOL Heat setting might "cross link" the paint, but it is not that big of a deal. When you heat the lure, if you over do it, then the paint heats up faster than the lure (the lure works as a heat sink) and it can break the bond as the paint expands faster than the lure. Larry Dahlberg also said something like this with Devon. Sooner or later the paint will bubble. If you do use heat, like I do if I don't have time to wait, then use the low setting and keep it moving. If the lure is hot to your lips
(yes, this is not a typo), then it is TOO hot. Just touch the heated lure to your lips to see how warm it is.
Forth, I normally just use Createx white for a primer, but only because it makes the later colors pop. Call it a base coat. Sometimes I use Black instead. I have noticed that white on the Alumilite White does not look like it is building up. You can end up over doing each coat, and this is BAD. This can cause the top of the paint to dry but seal the inner paint causing it to stay wet longer. If it does not dry before you clear coat.......
This will also cause bonding issues. Hint, the alumidust not only eliminates the need to paint, but if desired it works as a really good primer. Just dust the inside of the mold with the pearl and you end up with a great primer. I sure hope Mike, the Goop King, does not hate me for that tip.
Last, Devon 2 Ton is a common clear coat. It works, but it can cause problems if a coat is too thick. I suggest that you thin the Devon down with a little 100% (200 proof) alcohol. Again, look to your hardware store to get some denatured alcohol.
I hope this helps you out. Look into my list above and see if there are one or more things you do different. I don't sell my lures (well I sold two at an outrageous price because I did not want to sell them, but that is another story), but I have given several away. None of mine, the ones I have given away, or the two I sold, has peeled of bubbled since I started using the above methods. Really, if you think of it, what I am doing is really pretty simple, just a few little things to consider.