More newbie questions

[Jaxom]

In my first post I mentioned I wanted to replicate rapala's for walleye fishing. Recieved some great advice, but now I've a few more questions. Particularlly about the hardware. One of my orginal questions had to do with being able to drill and then screw in small eye screws after a lure has cured. But now I'm wondering if I should make a jig of some sorts so I can use wire. This would be very simlar to how whiggles are made. Comments?

Next question is subjective, but I'd still like some imput. What brand of tebble hooks do you all use? Wouldn't make scense to make custom lures, then use cheap "blue light special" hooks, right?

Finally, as I've read where some of you more experinced members here recommend copying existing lures first. Gain experience with Allumilite's products...then begin experimenting with your own designs. The wheels are already spinning on what I would like to do. But I would like to get some recommendations on some reference material on how to make lures. Specifically carving them...so I can make masters.

Thanks,

Jax

[aka anglinarcher]

My molds are set up so I can insert the screws or a wire frame in place before I pour the Alumilite White. As a result, I don't need to drill anything except on prototypes.

As for hooks, it all depends. The Mastad KVD series, 2X short, 1X strong, are good hooks for my Bass, Trout, etc. Gamakatsu are also a super good choice.

For my Muskie and Pike, and some of my larger bass, I prefer Owner Hooks.

Like I said, it all depends on what you are making and what you desire in a hook.

[eriksat1]

There is nothing more frustrating than having a screw eye break or pull out after hooking a huge fish and losing it do to a malfunction. That is why almost all musky baits are through wire design, even if a screw eye breaks off your line is still attached to the fish.

[aka anglinarcher]

eriksat1 wrote:
> There is nothing more frustrating than having a screw eye break or pull out
> after hooking a huge fish and losing it do to a malfunction. That is why
> almost all musky baits are through wire design, even if a screw eye breaks
> off your line is still attached to the fish.

You are correct of course. I often call my through wire a "hanger". Still, while it works great for Muskie, Pike, Strippers, Oh heck all salt water species, it is a bit of an overkill for bass, trout, and the like. The alumilite white is pretty tough stuff, tougher then wood, so it holds the hook and line ties well.

Still, if you have a wire bender, it never hurts to do a "hanger".

[dahlberg]

I suggest making hook hanger out of hard brass. it allows for easy tuning and is not nearly as hard to work with as steel. Many lures, in order to have the buoyancy desired are best poured from 610 foam in which screw eyes would not be recommended.
Totally on the money with the screw eyes for protos!
L

[rocko]

I have been using screw eyes with my slush molds, with a bit of a "twist". My mold is set up with the screw eyes in the master, so they plop right in before making the bait. I wrap a good batch of brass wire around the end of the screw eye before putting it in the mold. The wire is thin enough to grab into the threads, and the ball of wire is about 1/8" thicker than the screw. Once you pour the alumilite shell for the slush mold, some of the alumilite will stick to the wire and make the ball even bigger, sort of like a "chicken leg". Pour the foam in and it seals around and forms a very solid unit that has held up very well, and doesn' t rely on the threads for it's strength. My friend has used them for redfish in Venice and they have worked perfectly. I have yet to put some weights on the system to test it, but if a 30 lbs redfish can't wreck it, I figure I am good to go. It is just a quicker system for me than the thru-wire. I can do the wraps quickly and they pop into the molds fast.

Rocko

[dahlberg]

good idea!
best
L

[Watchhiller]

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