Tips on using Alumilite Silicone molding rubber

[aka anglinarcher]

Ok guys, I could not sleep tonight, so I thought I would put up some ideas and hints and see if I could draw out some ideas from others as well.

The following are things I have figured out.

1) If your mold tears, don't toss it out, repair it. Silicone sticks to silicone, so you can take a little HS2 or HS3 and actually glue the mold back together and it will be as strong as it once was.

2) If there is something you don't like about your mold --- say for example you don't like a tail detail --- cut that part of the mold out. Place your repaired blank, with the new or corrected details on it, into the mold. Wiggle the blank into the mold to place it correctly. Now pour in new silicone. The new will bond with the old and the results will be seamless. Of course, make sure you have cleaned off any mold release on the part to repair.

3) There is no reason you can not use Quick Set, HS2, and HS3 in the same mold. For example, let's say we want a firm mold but we have a spot or two with deep undercuts. Quick Set gives the firmest mold, but HS2 or HS3 deals with undercuts the best. It is possible, with a little planing, to mold the undercut area with one of the softer silicone products, then put it into a larger mold box and pour the rest with Quick Set. Quick Set, HS2 an HS3 all adhere to each other and form a super strong bond. Note: quick set, HS2 amd HS3 will not stick to the mold putty???

4) If you use UMR, you can mold silicone in a silicone mold. I was making some River2Sea copies the other day and ran out of the River2Sea tails. I was thinking I wanted a softer tail anyway. I made a HS2 mold of their tail, I sprayed it with UMR, then I used alumidust on the mold and then mixed a little HS2 and poured it in. WOW, worked better then I ever thought. OK, maybe not the cheapest, but ................

OK, here are 4 items to get things started. What hints do you have?

[Seachaser]

Thanks!

Much appreciated.

[Seachaser]

Question? I have a one piece mold of a hard bait and would like to use a through hook hanger. What would you do?

Thinking about slicing into to make a two part. Any better suggestions?

[aka anglinarcher]

There are a lot of experts on this site. I hope others offer there ideas as well.

In the tutorials Mike shows how he cut a slit in the nose of the mold for the version on the Mr. Wiggly he does. I do this as well at the back so I can run a wire straight through. The HS2 or HS3 stretch around the wire and seal. This might work for you.

On some of my lures I make a line tie, bottom hook eye, and a tail eye out of one through wire. To make it work with a one piece mold I had to slit the entire top open so I could open it up to insert the wire. It works well enough.

Sometimes you just need a two piece mold. If you split yours, remember to cut it so you have some kind of alignment devices on them.

Good luck, let us know how it worked out.

[Seachaser]

Thanks, will do.

[Mike - Alumilite]

Yes, as anglinarcher mentioned, the easiest thing to do is split the mold open on the top seam so the mold opens like a book which gives you access to the bottom placements for the hook hangers. Make sure to cut your small slits in the center as much as possible. It is most critical on the line tie eye up front if you are going to run the wire all the way to through from line tie to tail hook. The line tie eye is always the most critical.

Mike

[Seachaser]

Thanks all!