Hand carving lures

[Aaron Goldsteen]

Hey Larry,
I have been muskie fishing close to 10 years now and have been experimenting with different baits. I couldn't find a LARGE walk the dog topwater around 12-13" so i carved one, it turned out so well that iv been carving toppwaters for the past week. my question is one do you hand carve any lures, if so any tips(wood, knifes,designs). And two, what head shapes would give me the best surface walk the dog action, should i go with a rounder head like a wide glide, or a slightly pointed head like a Poes Jackpot? Oh, and the reason i ask is because the only fishing i have been doing for the past 2 months is ice fishing, so i haven't gotten any chance to test them out,(the bath tub doesn't work to well for muskie lures), and i don't want to be disappointed when muskie season comes around and there's little to no action in my new lures.
thanks.

[dahlberg]

Hi a
Yes, I've carved many lures, in fact I've been doing it for over 50 years! Nowadays I've pretty much shifted totally to Alumilite because it's quicker and easier if you're going to make more than one or two of something.
When proto typing, I always go in very purposeful stages, and always design and construct the first models so they can be easily modified on the water. In other words, weight, drills, gram scale, extra screw eyes or even basic shaping tools come with me in the field.
You will find that there are several basic elements to consider; shape, specific gravity, center of gravity, balance, and of course location of connection point.
Lures have many similarities to things that are supposed to fly, like kites, missles, and gliders, but they operate in a much thicker medium than air, so the effect of their control surfaces and shape are greatly amplified.
Small changes in any of the basic elements can produce large effects. The development is a process of informed trial and error.
Most lure builders seem to worry most about what the final product looks like. I take the opposite approach. My single concern is what the lure does when I animate it by putting it in motion. Only after I've accomplished getting a lure to do what I want it to in terms of movement, do I even begin thinking about details in regards to what it looks like.
good luck!
L

[Aaron Goldsteen]

Thanks for the advice Larry, I was also thinking about making some molds of my hand carved lures. What i want to do is have a few sub-surface walk the dog baits that look exactly like the topwater versions. Once i perfect the topwater action on the wooden one, if i make a mold of it that wont float will it have the same action as on the surface or do i need to modify it? the reason i ask is because i noticed that a lot of the baits that i buy that do this have the same overall shape but with some differences like linear bumps on either side of the tail section of the lure. oh and what material do you suggest i use for a slow sinking almost neutrally buoyant lure?
Thanks

[dahlberg]

Hi A
If you can weight a functional walk the dog surface lure so it is neutral or just barely sinks, either level or slightly tail down, it should do what you want.
You can use a buoyant material and lots of lead, or a less buoyant material and less weight. I used to use ash or rock maple for the application you are describing, with lead plugs inserted in the belly.
Now I use Alumilite super plastic and add micro balloons for buoyancy or either lead or tungsten powder for weight, usually pouring in two stages. The belly batch is heavy, the top is maxed with micro balloons. It still sinks, but this method keeps the center of gravity lower and makes the bait more stable. I use brass wire for hook hanger and eye so I can tweak it left, right, up or down.
To fine tune weight I use lead tape, then after I get the weight amount and placement figured, I drill a hole and either glue lead or mix the right weight of tungsten power with the right amount of super plastic to achieve the total needed and pour it in the hole.
Don't forget to keep track of the weight of your hooks. You can also play with making the rear hook slightly heavier or lighter if needed than the front one to achieve the perfect balance.
good luck!
L

[aka anglinarcher]

Larry,

I have seen several of your post, and a couple of your videos, where you talk about the lead and or tungsten powder.

I have not yet located a source for tungsten powder. Do you mind telling us where you get yours?

Thanks.

[dahlberg]

at this point, golf pro supply places. they use it to weight clubs. We plan to add it to the Makelure.com site.

best
L

[Aaron Goldsteen]

thanks for the advice Larry, ill let you know how it turns out once the lakes thaw

[aka anglinarcher]

Good thing I asked, I am so bad at Golf I have been Baned.

I will ask a "friend" to get me some. I look forward to when Makelure.com has it.