lure conditioning

[leftcoast]

hey Larry first off I want to say you've been an inspiration and you've opened my eyes to not just fishing but angling.

I fish primarily for trophy largemouth bass in Ca and was curious to know your thoughts on lure conditioning and what you do to change things up even when you know they are feeding on a certain forage in this case rainbow trout. The lakes/reservoirs I fish get pounded by both bass fishermen and trout trollers.

Do you feel it's better to make more casts to a given big fish spot cutting up different angles or making only a few methodical casts to only give that fish a few glimpses? and what are your thoughts on trolling?

lastly what are your thoughts on big fish being line shy? I've been experimenting with tieing a 4'-5' 20lb flourocarbon to my 25lb main line with a double uni. I am a little hesitant since the lures I'm throwing are $50-100 sinkers

[dahlberg]

hi lc
good questions. I'm flattered by your comments, thank you!
when fish get really tuned in to something available and easy sometimes they get super selective.
BUT there's more to what a lure looks like than what it looks like. Most of the california baits run with a wibby wibby wibby wiggle in a straight steady line. I'd reckon more random and non-mechanical movement might be a great change up.
I say better not to pound a spot with lures for too long, epecially if you're sure the fish are seeing them and not biting. However, I once made 51 casts into the same place and caught a musky on the 52nd.
Trolling is often deadly, sometimes the best way for catching. Almost never most fun.
Big fish can be everything shy. period. I have known them to keep a distance just out of casting range of a boat, and definately react to a trolling motor. I could give you examples you may not believe.
best,
L

[leftcoast]

great reply Larry you reaffirmed alot of the thoughts I've been pondering on after many fishless trips!

I've been making my own wood swimbaits the last six months to give the fish something different and am finally nearing the paint stages Amongst the baits are oversized 10"-12" three piece baits,a 12" walking deadstick bait,and a few smaller bass/gill/minnow three piece baits.

what are your thoughts and approach on deadsticking and is there a certain condition you look for?

can you share any thoughts on making a wood bait less mechanical? I've been trying to make a lure that has a line tie on the side of the bait to give it the long sweeping arc action of the Killer Compass for my own use
but I've been failing miserably. Check it out here I could see them Peacocks tearing this thing up literally!
http://www.depsweb.co.jp/killercompass/ ... mpass.html

lastly can you recommend a good sized blank for throwing 8-12oz baits that has enough sensitivity to feel if a three piece swimbait is kicking at the right retrieve. I am trying to stay away from the heavier inshore saltwater blanks such as Rainshadow,Calstar,Seekers. Have you thrown the Loomis 957,GraphiteUSA Wahoo,Fig Rig Jawbreaker,or Big Dawg St. Croix? I am currently using a Shimano Crucial XH and a pair of Okuma GS711 XH's for my heavier baits and they creak and flex a bit. Something in the 8'-9' range with a longer 14"-18" handle would be perfect.

appreciate all your help!

[dahlberg]

hi LC
a rod's gotta toss the lure, allow the angler to feel and work it comfortably with a minimum of fatigue, set the hooks, fight the fish.
rods of the length you are suggesting coupled with lures that heavy really are man killers and create all kinds of extreme compromises in terms of performance characteristics.
I would devote some time toward engineering lighter lures if possible.

Leaving a lure for an extended period of time within a fishes "visual zone of awareness" is sometime the only way to get it to react. Few anglers, including me have the patience. Clear water is when it's most easily verified, but it's a factor all of the time.
Slight movement is ok so long as the combined, gross amount of movement does not take the lure out of the area within which the fish can detect it visually.

good luck!
L

[leftcoast]

[quote="dahlberg"]hi LC
a rod's gotta toss the lure, allow the angler to feel and work it comfortably with a minimum of fatigue, set the hooks, fight the fish.
rods of the length you are suggesting coupled with lures that heavy really are man killers and create all kinds of extreme compromises in terms of performance characteristics.
I would devote some time toward engineering lighter lures if possible.

Leaving a lure for an extended period of time within a fishes "visual zone of awareness" is sometime the only way to get it to react. Few anglers, including me have the patience. Clear water is when it's most easily verified, but it's a factor all of the time.
Slight movement is ok so long as the combined, gross amount of movement does not take the lure out of the area within which the fish can detect it visually.

good luck!
L[/quote]


I hear what your saying Larry these baits can take a toll over the course of a day. I will typically switch between 3-5 oz baits and the heavier 8+oz baits depending on the spot. With that being said and taking into consideration that I am trying to match the hatch of most hatchery stockers (8"-14") what else would you suggest throwing that mimics this large forage to an already selective appetite?