The Hunt For Big Fish with Larry Dahlberg

Hey Larry, did I see you using a wire leader with a Wide Glide on the Wollaston Pike episode?

If so, was it one of the tie-able/knot-able wires, and which one, what lb. test? Any limitations to follow, to keep from messing up the Wide glide action?

Thanks, I'm thinking it might help to keep some nasty (as in toothy & mean) bluefish from biting off my expensive Wide Glides.

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Dave

up to 45# on small one up to 90 on large. knots, twist melt or crimPs ok.
leave open loop. leader about an inch longer than lure.
best
L

Larry,

I was considering using the standard leaders in my box with my new WideGlide(s). Great looking lures by the way. Do you think that removing the swivel and attaching the loop end of the leader to the bait with a smaller split ring would be an effective way to eliminate some weight and still maintain strength? If so, what size rings would be appropriate considering that a 40+ inch pike is fairly rare? I'm an experienced bass and catfish guy but relatively new to the toothy fish game.

Thanks

What size are the lures? It would be no problem with the large size, might be a big issue with the small one.
someone needs to invent a species specific bluefish repellant!
best
L

Larry,

Thanks for the response. I own both sizes, and that's what my gut told me. My grandfather always told me, "It's better to ask than screw it up." Well, his choice of words was slightly different. Haha. Last thing, do you have a tie-able leader preference when fishing for pike/musky?

that's a good question. The type that is easy to tie consists of more strands per given strength, which is partly why it's more manageable.
BUT, because each strand is thinner, each is also weaker.
Wire does not stretch, so when you bend multiple strands around a corner the ouside fibers carry the whole load.
When casting, jerking, landing fish etc. the wire with the finest fibers begins to deteriorate one fiber at a time so failure can sort of sneak up on you.
That being said, both types work great but when using the soft knotable type you have to keep a very close eye on the metal fibers both where it's knotted, crimped or turns a sharp direction!
My preferred method is twist melting nylon coated wire. Second is crimps, third is knots.
best,
L

Larry,

I have never performed a twist melt. I assume that this can be tricky and weak when not done properly. Can you provide a quick how to? Also, what tools/supplies will I need? Thanks, again, in advance.

Robert

It' really simple. In fact all you would really have to do is lay the wire side by side and melt it. by twisting it's easier to keep in place while heating.
Gently twist the wire together and while holding it so each side of the wire that forms the loop remains tightly touching, wave a lighter an inch or two under it until it just begins to melt. best done with no wind and mild flame.
don't let it get too hot. what you are doing is cross linking the melted nylon coating, which if melted together over an inch or so will result in a very strong connection. Watch the "tag", if it sticks out and has bare wire, it can begin to peel. If you're really careful you can get the tag covered in the nylon by a little touch up with the lighter after you've finished fusing the twisted part. Nylon coated wire comes in both clear and black coating. If the clear turns yellow you've overheated it a little. If you gently bend the connection it should not be brittle, which is another sign of overheating.
best
L